Legendary Sea Views

View from THE GROVE CRETE towards the Bay of Messara, where myth meets reality.

The view from THE GROVE sure is marvelous. But there is more to it than the gently sloping mountains and hills that form the coast of the Bay of Messara, and more than the shimmering waves that change with the wind, weather and time of day.

Take in the panoramic view from your veranda and follow us on a journey through the ages. While you enjoy the scenery, listen to the stories that the Libyan Sea has to tell. First, look left to the coast near Matala. Is it just your imagination or can you really see, in the far distance, the white silhouette of a giant beast galopping across the waters towards the shores of the bay? It was here that Zeus brought lovely Europa, daughter of the Phonecian king Agenor. To the young woman the king of the gods had appeared in the irresistable shape of a white bull, inducing her to mount him, only to be taken away by Zeus from the shores of Tyre in today’s Lebanon across the waters of the Mediterranean to Crete. Somewhere near Matala, probably in the coastal village of Lentas, Europa’s feet for the first time touched the grounds of the continent that would bear her name.

Through storms and tempests he the virgin bore,
And lands her safe on the Dictean shore;
Where now, in his divinest form array’d,
In his true shape he captivates the maid;
Who gazes on him, and with wond’ring eyes
Beholds the new majestic figure rise,
His glowing features, and celestial light,
And all the God discover’d to her sight.

(Ovid, Metamorphoses, Books II and III)

Aeons later, this ancient coast would witness a rougher landing compared to the smooth arrival Zeus had ensured for the princess who would give birth to Minos and the civilization that was named after him. The Bay of Messara can be as inviting as it can be cruel. Do you hear the crying and shouting on board the fleet of King Menelaus upon his victorious return from Troy? His ships are about to be wrecked on the cliffs of Kommos, the ancient port of the Minoan palace of Phaistos and of the old capital of Gortyn.

Now there is a smooth cliff, sheer towards the sea, on the border of Gortyn in the misty deep, where the Southwest Wind drives the great wave against the headland on the left toward Phaestus, and a little rock holds back a great wave. Thither came some of his ships, and the men with much ado escaped destruction, howbeit the ships the waves dashed to pieces against the reef.

(Homer, Odyssey)

Don’t feel too sorry for the King of Sparta, though. Five ships survived and were carried to Egypt, where Menelaus and his remaining men found gold and other riches. So relax and let your eyes wander further down the coast, to the southernmost tip of Crete: Cape Lithinon. It is here where the first Arab conquest of the island began in the early 9th century AD. Expelled from Andalusia, a fleet of Muslims reached the Bay of Messara. They were here to stay, as their leader proclaimed:

I have brought you to a land flowing with milk and honey. Here is your true country; repose from your toils, and forget the barren place of your nativity.

(Edward Gibbon in “The History of Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire”)

On the island, the Arabs ran into a thoroughly Christianised people, whose history can be traced to a place a few kilometers further to the East of Cape Lithinon: Kaloi Limenes, the site of ancient Lasea. The Bible recounts that the ship carrying Saint Paul (Greek: Agios Pavlos) to imprisonment in Rome had to shelter here. It is not clear if Paul’s recommendation to stay there was heeded. But he may have baptised the first Christian converts at Lasea, spending time in a small cave that can still be visited today.

And when we had sailed slowly many days, and scarce were come over against Cnidus, the wind not suffering us, we sailed under Crete, over against Salmone;

And, hardly passing it, came unto a place which is called the fair havens; nigh whereunto was the city of Lasea.

Now when much time was spent, and when sailing was now dangerous, because the fast was now already past, Paul admonished them,

And said unto them, Sirs, I perceive that this voyage will be with hurt and much damage, not only of the lading and ship, but also of our lives.

(King James Bible, Acts 27: 7 - 13)

Beyond Cape Lithinon lies only the ocean that has carried Spartans, Arabs, Apostles and many others to the shores of South Crete - until your eyes come to rest on Paximadia Island. No others than the celestial siblings Apollo and Artemis are believed to have been born here. For Cretans do not locate the birthplace of Zeus’ twin children on Delos in the Cyclades archipelago, but on Paximadia. Taking the form of a dolphin, Apollo would later guide a group of Cretan sailors to the region of Phokis on the Greek mainland, where they were instructed to guard the sanctuary in his honour: Delphi.

Then Phoebus Apollo pondered in his heart what men he should bring in to be his ministers in sacrifice and to serve him in rocky Pytho. And while he considered this, he became aware of a swift ship upon the wine-like sea in which were many men and goodly, Cretans from Cnossos, the city of Minos […]. These men were sailing in their black ship for traffic and for profit to sandy Pylos and to the men of Pylos. But Phoebus Apollo met them: in the open sea he sprang upon their swift ship, like a dolphin in shape, and lay there, a great and awesome monster, and none of them gave heed so as to understand; but they sought to cast the dolphin overboard. But he kept shaking the black ship every way and making the timbers quiver. […] [A]nd the lord Apollo, son of Zeus, led them on until they reached far-seen Crisa [in Phokis], land of vines, and into haven: there the sea-coursing ship grounded on the sands. Then, like a star at noonday, the lord, far-working Apollo, leaped from the ship. […] From his shrine he sprang forth again, swift as a thought, to speed again to the ship, bearing the form of a man, brisk and sturdy, in the prime of his youth, while his broad shoulders were covered with his hair: and he spoke to the Cretans, uttering winged words: […] “Strangers who once dwelt about wooded Cnossos but now shall return no more each to his loved city and fair house and dear wife; here shall you keep my rich temple that is honored by many men. I am the son of Zeus; Apollo is my name: but you I brought here over the wide gulf of the sea, meaning you no hurt; nay, here you shall keep my rich temple that is greatly honored among men, and you shall know the plans of the deathless gods, and by their will you shall be honored continually for all time. stand side by side around the altar and pray: and in as much as at the first on the hazy sea I sprang upon the swift ship in the form of a dolphin, pray to me as Apollo Delphinius; also the altar itself shall be called Delphinius […].

(Homer, Hymn to Apollo)

Finally, on a clear day you may glimpse the silhouette of the island of Gavdos to the far Southwest. Listen carefully and you may hear the soft voice of a woman trying to enchant a fabled guest. It is on Gavdos where the nymph Calypso kept Odysseus prisoner for seven years, until Zeus sent Hermes to convice her to set the hero free and let him return to his mortal wife, Penelope.

[Odysseus] verily abides in an island suffering grievous pains, in the halls of the nymph Calypso, who keeps him perforce; and he cannot return to his own land, for he has at hand no ships with oars and no comrades to send him on his way over the broad back of the sea.

(Goddess Athena taking a stand for Odysseus before Zeus, in: Homer, Odyssey)

Your view now leaves Calypso’s island and her lonely chants behind and comes to rest at the sight of the sunset. It is the same sight enjoyed by ancient heroes, biblical messengers and conquerers. Their voices still echo from the sea through the branches of our olive trees.